I had nearly a decade's worth of high-end fashion photographers, billboards, beauty campaigns, and articles to my name, for many years plus-size women made me feel grateful just to be invited to these fashion month shows because, quite frankly, I didn't have the acceptable "fashion-worthy body" that's so prevalent in the fashion industry. I could tell that my size was still a problem. The issue of plus-size models was still present.
This was also evident from the lack of diversity on the catwalks, particularly in London. With their flamboyance, creativity, and punk spirit, artists and musicians from the nation that gave birth to punk and witnessed decades of fashion trends influence the rest of the world, but not enough to involve larger individuals.
I then made the decision to abstain from LFW. Why should we support you until you invite us to participate in the performances, give us front-row seats, and dress us?
In the year 2022, we've gone through a lot. Mental health, wellbeing, self-love, and self-care have been at the forefront of our main conversations throughout the pandemic, along with the true significance of diversity and inclusion. We've noticed a significant shift in the way brands are promoting the idea that bodies of all sizes belong in their social media pages, brand campaigns, and messaging. Brands like Never Fully Dressed, Karen Millen, Ganni, Anthropologie, and Rixo have expanded their plus-size ranges to demonstrate that they were paying attention to the current conversation about inclusion. Surely, that wasn't merely a fad.
With that in mind, I had high hopes for this year's fashion weeks. I dove back into the fashion week vortex to see if any brands actually lived up to the hype, and I'm going to be so happy that London will have received the same big inclusive energy that New York, Milan, and Paris have received.
Now that we properly #IncludingTheCurve? Yes, we're going to normalize all different body types. We will actually witness this change, with its roots deeply rooted in the earth and prepared to grow and bloom, rather than as a one-time gimmick or an effort to salvage a company's reputation.
Let's examine who, if anyone, proved me wrong this fashion month and see who actually made that inclusive change.
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
Sinead O'Dwyer at London Fashion Week STUART WILSON/BFC |
LONDON FASHION WEEK
Max Mara at Milan Fashion Week VICTOR VIRGILE/GETTY IMAGES |
PARIS FASHION WEEK
PFW featured over 80 designers, with 40 models appearing in each show. 32,000 looks, on average, would be paraded down the runway by models.
9 out of 80 designers and models were included.
Balmain, Chloe, Ester Manas, Ottolinger, Koche, and Coperni were among the brands mentioned. Like Sinead O'Dwyer and Karoline Vitto, Ester Manas had a lovely variety of curvier bodies.
In Paris, 33 out of 3200 models were plus-sized.
Twenty of them were models from the Ester Manas performance.
Who do you think broadcasted the most size representation, based on the aforementioned averages?
When it comes to inclusion, New York has always been the leader in my eyes. New York did have the most plus models this year, but there were never more than 4 in a show. Consider the amazing shows from Chromat as well as the groundbreaking Savage Fenty shows by Rihanna. Instead of claiming that a particular fashion week had the most representation, I'd like to say that these particular designers have won this season in my opinion: Karoline Vitto, Sinead O'Dwyer, and Ester Manas at LFW and PFW, respectively
I'm choosing designers over locations because, in the absence of them, curve representation in those cities would have been incredibly underrepresented. All four fashion weeks' 45+ models have come from those three designers.
How will next season turn out? Have these smaller brands broken the barrier?
Should we encourage these high-end designers to succeed by providing support instead of encouraging them to show more representation with a model or two?
Or do we continue to promote the companies that, although they don't appear on the catwalks, do frequently feature our curvier body types, such as:
Only time will tell, but I'm eagerly anticipating the upcoming season and year to see if #IncludingTheCurve will continue in all areas. I intend to make notes.
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